
<a href="https://d1js6qm6cshi0v.cloudfront.net/oldblog/2015-10-31-state-of-the-offspring-address-october-2015/22448477140_906a7e7f64_o_d.jpg" target="_blank" class="flickr-image post-thumb" title="Halloween 2015">
  <img src="https://d1js6qm6cshi0v.cloudfront.net/oldblog/2015-10-31-state-of-the-offspring-address-october-2015/22448477140_8395831510_t.jpg" alt="Halloween 2015"/>
</a>

The Raslets made some good progress in October. The biggest event was Nora starting French lessons. We had been searching around for a potential French teacher for some time. Pretty much the only language that anyone is interested in teaching children in Spain is English; all the French classes are for older people. Someone directed us to a woman who lives in the building adjacent to us who was going to give French classes to students at a local school, but, as is often the case in public education, the funding dried up at the last minute and she ended up not doing it. I spoke to her, and she said, "Hmm, well, I'd need to brush up on my textbooks from school, but I could probably teach some basics to a six-year-old." Not quite what I wanted to hear.  Later, someone else tipped us off to another potential teacher, and my wife called and set up a class schedule. Nora goes for one hour during her two hour lunch break from school, which really tightens what is normally a very loose time period of her day. It also means that I take her to class.

### _Français_

After our experiences with Dance class and Skating class, I was pretty terrified about whether or not Nora would accept being left alone with a teacher for an hour. On the first day, we met at the designated place, which happened to be right in front of the teacher's house, and we were both invited in. The teacher, Natalie, is Belgian, so she's a native French speaker, and she is _absolutely perfect_. Nora responds really well to one-on-one communication where the other person is talkative and attentive and focused on Nora, and Natalie is all of those things. They do a lot of coloring and drawing of things, and Natalie does a great job of interjecting some French among the mostly Spanish she speaks with Nora. I stayed for about ten minutes of the first day, but then slipped out of the house with neither of them noticing. The second day, I came up for about a minute, and with each subsequent class, I don't even go up to Natalie's house. Nora _loves_ French class. She is constantly talking about what she's learning and about what she hopes to learn there. It has been a resounding success. Compared to other extracurricular activities, it's somewhat expensive, but _of course it is_, since it's literally an hour of someone's attention.

Starting in November, Nora will be taking... **_violin lessons_**!!

### Ian's Speaking

Ian is slowly but surely picking up this whole speech thing. Several times a day, he will say something to us, which we cannot parse. We guess what he's saying, and he will say, "No, blah blah blah" and repeat what he said before. If you repeat exactly the sounds he made, he will also tell you that you got it wrong. It can be very frustrating for all parties, but it's very rewarding when you finally guess what he's saying.

He doesn't get asked his name in English very much.

<iframe width="505" height="284" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/5O632VLFzm4" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>

### A visit to Bilbao

Also, this month, we paid a visit to our friends, whom we met through this very blog, in Bilbao, [Bnanno and Qpatez](http://akinotxilis.com), for some lovely Indian food. Actually getting there was a bit of a disaster, because Google Maps sent us on a very awkward route, and Ian puked twice on the way there, causing me to get out of the car with Ian to walk the rest of the way. Google Maps said it was only a 7 minute walk from where we got out, but then it was suggesting that I walk, with my child, along a busy motorway, for a long time. In the end, Qpatez was sent out to rescue us. Eventually we got there and had a wonderful spread of lamb and other Indian delicacies.

<a href="https://d1js6qm6cshi0v.cloudfront.net/oldblog/2015-10-31-state-of-the-offspring-address-october-2015/22755699670_bff477ecb7_o_d.jpg" target="_blank" class="flickr-image" title="Indian Food with Bawa">
  <img src="https://d1js6qm6cshi0v.cloudfront.net/oldblog/2015-10-31-state-of-the-offspring-address-october-2015/22755699670_267ba8a953.jpg" alt="Indian Food with Bawa"/>
</a>

Rice eater. Ian didn't eat much, but he had been puking only hours earlier, so perhaps he wasn't too hungry.

<a href="https://d1js6qm6cshi0v.cloudfront.net/oldblog/2015-10-31-state-of-the-offspring-address-october-2015/22551556189_2c36dae2f2_o_d.jpg" target="_blank" class="flickr-image" title="Indian Food with Bawa">
  <img src="https://d1js6qm6cshi0v.cloudfront.net/oldblog/2015-10-31-state-of-the-offspring-address-october-2015/22551556189_7746087f52.jpg" alt="Indian Food with Bawa"/>
</a>

Nora very much enjoyed the food.

<a href="https://d1js6qm6cshi0v.cloudfront.net/oldblog/2015-10-31-state-of-the-offspring-address-october-2015/22943702805_2e9ff6dfe7_o_d.jpg" target="_blank" class="flickr-image" title="Indian Food with Bawa">
  <img src="https://d1js6qm6cshi0v.cloudfront.net/oldblog/2015-10-31-state-of-the-offspring-address-october-2015/22943702805_77a05fe1f6.jpg" alt="Indian Food with Bawa"/>
</a>

After lunch trip to the park.

### Escapee

The kids spent two weekends this month with their Spanish grandparents. There was one memorable incident in which no one could find Ian in their house. The kids' Aunt Belén discovered that the apartment door was ajar and ran down the _five flights of steps_ (there is no lift) to discover Ian was down in the lobby crouched under the stairwell. When he saw her, he put his finger to his lips to signal that she should be quiet, as if he was hunting wascawy wabbits in his imagination.

<a href="https://d1js6qm6cshi0v.cloudfront.net/oldblog/2015-10-31-state-of-the-offspring-address-october-2015/22525307207_f8ecb0b57e_o_d.jpg" target="_blank" class="flickr-image" title="Spiky Hair Ian">
  <img src="https://d1js6qm6cshi0v.cloudfront.net/oldblog/2015-10-31-state-of-the-offspring-address-october-2015/22525307207_f0d7ec4387_z.jpg" alt="Spiky Hair Ian"/>
</a>

### Halloween Parties

We had our annual Halloween party, but it wasn't quite as fun as past years. What we did do, however, was all dress up for the Halloween parade around town, which is an evening where participating vendors will give out candy to costumed kids. The real fun was going to a Halloween party hosted by some parents from Nora's class in their lovely mountain bungalow. They really went all out with costumed mannequins and styrofoam gravestones, and several large pumpkins, one of which I was asked to carve in a live performance.

<a href="https://d1js6qm6cshi0v.cloudfront.net/oldblog/2015-10-31-state-of-the-offspring-address-october-2015/22552198709_e26342680c_o_d.jpg" target="_blank" class="flickr-image" title="Halloween 2015">
  <img src="https://d1js6qm6cshi0v.cloudfront.net/oldblog/2015-10-31-state-of-the-offspring-address-october-2015/22552198709_fe9c63cd63.jpg" alt="Halloween 2015"/>
</a>

Our pumpkins. Designs drawn by Nora and her friend, Carmen, and carved by my wife and me.

<a href="https://d1js6qm6cshi0v.cloudfront.net/oldblog/2015-10-31-state-of-the-offspring-address-october-2015/22323200973_5eee461a2e_o_d.jpg" target="_blank" class="flickr-image" title="Halloween 2015">
  <img src="https://d1js6qm6cshi0v.cloudfront.net/oldblog/2015-10-31-state-of-the-offspring-address-october-2015/22323200973_6e54f6deae.jpg" alt="Halloween 2015"/>
</a>

Arachnowitch!

<a href="https://d1js6qm6cshi0v.cloudfront.net/oldblog/2015-10-31-state-of-the-offspring-address-october-2015/22525989407_19ab222a48_o_d.jpg" target="_blank" class="flickr-image" title="Halloween 2015">
  <img src="https://d1js6qm6cshi0v.cloudfront.net/oldblog/2015-10-31-state-of-the-offspring-address-october-2015/22525989407_f2aea405c3.jpg" alt="Halloween 2015"/>
</a>

Witches and pumpkins and little brothers, oh my!

<a href="https://d1js6qm6cshi0v.cloudfront.net/oldblog/2015-10-31-state-of-the-offspring-address-october-2015/22323205003_5432677f50_o_d.jpg" target="_blank" class="flickr-image" title="Halloween 2015">
  <img src="https://d1js6qm6cshi0v.cloudfront.net/oldblog/2015-10-31-state-of-the-offspring-address-october-2015/22323205003_51b5ee8f07_z.jpg" alt="Halloween 2015"/>
</a>

Halloween family!

<a href="https://d1js6qm6cshi0v.cloudfront.net/oldblog/2015-10-31-state-of-the-offspring-address-october-2015/22526063108_5d54bea84c_o_d.jpg" target="_blank" class="flickr-image" title="Halloween 2015">
  <img src="https://d1js6qm6cshi0v.cloudfront.net/oldblog/2015-10-31-state-of-the-offspring-address-october-2015/22526063108_ae0d873699_z.jpg" alt="Halloween 2015"/>
</a>

Trampoline Man enters his secret lair.

<a href="https://d1js6qm6cshi0v.cloudfront.net/oldblog/2015-10-31-state-of-the-offspring-address-october-2015/22526063938_4ac1f52358_o_d.jpg" target="_blank" class="flickr-image" title="Halloween 2015">
  <img src="https://d1js6qm6cshi0v.cloudfront.net/oldblog/2015-10-31-state-of-the-offspring-address-october-2015/22526063938_42ed5bb87d_z.jpg" alt="Halloween 2015"/>
</a>

They put a _lot_ of work into the snack spread at this party.

<a href="https://d1js6qm6cshi0v.cloudfront.net/oldblog/2015-10-31-state-of-the-offspring-address-october-2015/22552206569_40367793bd_o_d.jpg" target="_blank" class="flickr-image" title="Halloween 2015">
  <img src="https://d1js6qm6cshi0v.cloudfront.net/oldblog/2015-10-31-state-of-the-offspring-address-october-2015/22552206569_4931815031_z.jpg" alt="Halloween 2015"/>
</a>

The brain cake was the most impressive, in my opinion.

<a href="https://d1js6qm6cshi0v.cloudfront.net/oldblog/2015-10-31-state-of-the-offspring-address-october-2015/22944361345_c020054b90_o_d.jpg" target="_blank" class="flickr-image" title="Halloween 2015">
  <img src="https://d1js6qm6cshi0v.cloudfront.net/oldblog/2015-10-31-state-of-the-offspring-address-october-2015/22944361345_f061d8efae.jpg" alt="Halloween 2015"/>
</a>

Hungry?

### Additional Photos

<a href="https://d1js6qm6cshi0v.cloudfront.net/oldblog/2015-10-31-state-of-the-offspring-address-october-2015/22670938092_ae0cc0e6d1_o_d.jpg" target="_blank" class="flickr-image" title="Coffee table or chin rest?">
  <img src="https://d1js6qm6cshi0v.cloudfront.net/oldblog/2015-10-31-state-of-the-offspring-address-october-2015/22670938092_5e4de98465.jpg" alt="Coffee table or chin rest?"/>
</a>

Ian finds some weird postures in which to watch _Dora the Explorer_.

<a href="https://d1js6qm6cshi0v.cloudfront.net/oldblog/2015-10-31-state-of-the-offspring-address-october-2015/22943593065_2c17d19cb0_o_d.jpg" target="_blank" class="flickr-image" title="Mini Me">
  <img src="https://d1js6qm6cshi0v.cloudfront.net/oldblog/2015-10-31-state-of-the-offspring-address-october-2015/22943593065_7f17835d98_z.jpg" alt="Mini Me"/>
</a>

Father and son.

<a href="https://d1js6qm6cshi0v.cloudfront.net/oldblog/2015-10-31-state-of-the-offspring-address-october-2015/22755613740_7077c60b9a_o_d.jpg" target="_blank" class="flickr-image" title="Ian">
  <img src="https://d1js6qm6cshi0v.cloudfront.net/oldblog/2015-10-31-state-of-the-offspring-address-october-2015/22755613740_24d9b46ef0_z.jpg" alt="Ian"/>
</a>

This kid makes sweaters look good.

<a href="https://d1js6qm6cshi0v.cloudfront.net/oldblog/2015-10-31-state-of-the-offspring-address-october-2015/22954762921_37c55737ff_o_d.jpg" target="_blank" class="flickr-image" title="Ian">
  <img src="https://d1js6qm6cshi0v.cloudfront.net/oldblog/2015-10-31-state-of-the-offspring-address-october-2015/22954762921_d79f1fb465.jpg" alt="Ian"/>
</a>

"Hop on, babe. Let's ride."

The state of the offspring is strong!

<a href="https://d1js6qm6cshi0v.cloudfront.net/oldblog/2015-10-31-state-of-the-offspring-address-october-2015/22930929862_a1197576f8_o_d.jpg" target="_blank" class="flickr-image" title="Halloween 2015">
  <img src="https://d1js6qm6cshi0v.cloudfront.net/oldblog/2015-10-31-state-of-the-offspring-address-october-2015/22930929862_659fde7e59_z.jpg" alt="Halloween 2015"/>
</a>


State of the Offspring Address - October 2015


<a href="https://d1js6qm6cshi0v.cloudfront.net/oldblog/2015-10-14-salamanca-2015-part-3-of-3/22126959651_84cab125b8_o_d.jpg" target="_blank" class="flickr-image post-thumb" title="Salamanca">
  <img src="https://d1js6qm6cshi0v.cloudfront.net/oldblog/2015-10-14-salamanca-2015-part-3-of-3/22126959651_cfeeacda4a_t.jpg" alt="Salamanca"/>
</a>

When we awoke on October 11th, after a full ten hours of slumber, we realized how exhausted we had been, not just from the many kilometers of tourism walking we'd done the day before, but from all the stress in our lives that made this two day vacation such a necessity. Having seen and done most of the main things on our todo list the day before, we were free to walk leisurely around the city. We _did_ stop in at the tourism office to see about getting a guided tour, but all the guided tours were booked, except for the ones starting at 5pm, and the weather forecast was for rain at 5pm.  We went to the [_Casa Lis_](http://www.museocasalis.org/nuevaweb/), which looks like a pretty cool building with walls of stained glass, but when I saw that it was really a crowded Art Nouveau museum, with a 4€ entry fee, we decided that we didn't feel up to putting in the effort to enjoy art and read placards about works of art. Next to the museum was [_Restaurante Lis_](http://www.restaurantelis.es), which had a pretty delicious sounding tasting menu, so we put it high on our list of possible dinner establishments and continued on our walk.

That was when we accidentally discovered the wonder that is the _Convento de las Dueñas_, which we enjoyed immensely.

It was approaching lunchtime and we decided to start looking for some good tapas, remembering a few places that we had seen the day before. We were intent on doing a better job of choosing food on Sunday.

### Will you accept cookies?

More out of curiosity for the interesting design than anything else, I suggested we at least look around inside this French biscuit shop. The shop had its psychological tricks down pat. We didn't stand a chance. As soon as we stepped foot inside, a lady came up to us with an open tin of US-quarter-sized cookies and offered that we should try one. It was delicious, like what I would call a butter cookie, or shortbread. The most interesting aspect of the shop were the tins. In fact, they _knew_ that they were really selling tins, since they had a whole section of the shop that was just empty tins for sale, for almost as much as the ones with cookies in them (again, genius anchoring and up-selling).

<a href="https://d1js6qm6cshi0v.cloudfront.net/oldblog/2015-10-14-salamanca-2015-part-3-of-3/21494041924_5d16ff9197_o_d.jpg" target="_blank" class="flickr-image" title="Salamanca">
  <img src="https://d1js6qm6cshi0v.cloudfront.net/oldblog/2015-10-14-salamanca-2015-part-3-of-3/21494041924_5dafa4f2c9.jpg" alt="Salamanca"/>
</a>

We both liked the sample cookie, and my wife was intrigued by the "lemon and cinnamon" flavor, so we put on a plastic glove and chose only one cookie, to share, from the lemon and cinnamon pile. There was no price displayed. We took the cookie over to the cash register and, a little embarrassed at being so stingy, requested to pay for the one cookie. Now, this cookie was not at all big. Its diameter was less than that of a can of soda. The checkout lady put it on the scale and said, "Okay, that'll be 2.40€." Two-forty!!? For a single cookie?? I have bought decent bottles of wine for that much in Spain. Whatever, we're tourists... so we walked out of the shop and broke our cookie in half to eat it. It was _disgusting_.

So then I was walking around with a bag of two nibbled cookies halves. I felt bad throwing away the remaining 2€ worth of lemony calories, so I thought that maybe I could give it to a beggar or something, which got me noticing how there were almost no beggars at all in the heavy tourist area of Salamanca. When I did finally find one, I had moral qualms about giving partially eaten food, even with the best intentions, so I ended up leaving it on top of a trash can _near_ the beggar.

### Tapas

Out of curiosity, we kept walking down the _Rua Mayor_, the main pedestrian strip until it passed a road with cars and kept going. We found ourselves in the financial district, where literally the corner of every block was a major bank. The rest of the blocks were high end clothing stores, the same chains you will see in any Spanish or European "high street" (to steal a British term). There were almost no restaurants to speak of, but then we spotted one that was full of people, and most likely locals, not tourists, so we sat down and ordered a half-ration of _jamón serrano_. We got stingy and ordered the _cebo_, rather than the _bellota_, ham, [the equivalent](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Jamón_ibérico#Types_and_characteristics) of ordering a _Reserva_ instead of a _Gran Reserva_ in winespeak.

<a href="https://d1js6qm6cshi0v.cloudfront.net/oldblog/2015-10-14-salamanca-2015-part-3-of-3/21495761253_745fb2757f_o_d.jpg" target="_blank" class="flickr-image" title="Salamanca">
  <img src="https://d1js6qm6cshi0v.cloudfront.net/oldblog/2015-10-14-salamanca-2015-part-3-of-3/21495761253_5cfea30185_z.jpg" alt="Salamanca"/>
</a>

Marga's face really lights up with some _jamón_ in front of her. It was _delicious_!

Afterwards, we walked back towards the tourist district and had two tapas in [_Restaurante Rua Mayor_](http://www.restauranteruamayor.com), a place that had been recommended to us and where we stopped for a total of three rounds over our two-day stay. We ordered a rice dish similar to mine from the day before, and a layered zucchini concoction that was also delicious. Neither got photographed with all the hunger.

Somewhat full, and hoping to save space for a good supper, we decided to only have one more drink, with no tapa. Somewhat randomly, we chose a place called [_iPan iVino_](http://ipanivino.com).

<a href="https://d1js6qm6cshi0v.cloudfront.net/oldblog/2015-10-14-salamanca-2015-part-3-of-3/22090691426_6e69cba6ab_o_d.jpg" target="_blank" class="flickr-image" title="Salamanca">
  <img src="https://d1js6qm6cshi0v.cloudfront.net/oldblog/2015-10-14-salamanca-2015-part-3-of-3/22090691426_5bd082e345_z.jpg" alt="Salamanca"/>
</a>

Because I'm an Apple nerd, I enjoyed the name, but because I'm a total idiot, I didn't really _get_ the wordplay until the following day, when I said the name aloud to myself. I remember [when the iPhone came out](/2008/07/11/the-iphone-in-spain/), there was some confusion in Spain as to what to call it, specifically, whether to pronounce the _i_ prefix in Spanish (ee-phone) or in English (eye-phone). Eventually, the latter came to dominate. And that sound, like the English word "eye" or "I", has many meanings in Spanish, but the only one that makes sense in this context is the conjugation of the verb _haber_: _hay_, meaning "there is". Thus making the name of the bar, when read aloud, "Hay pan, hay vino", or "There is bread, there is wine". Duh! Too clever for me.

<a href="https://d1js6qm6cshi0v.cloudfront.net/oldblog/2015-10-14-salamanca-2015-part-3-of-3/21928988298_b9daa870ba_o_d.jpg" target="_blank" class="flickr-image" title="Salamanca">
  <img src="https://d1js6qm6cshi0v.cloudfront.net/oldblog/2015-10-14-salamanca-2015-part-3-of-3/21928988298_03399dca64.jpg" alt="Salamanca"/>
</a>

While there were both a _Burger King_ and a _McDonalds_ in Salamanca (both patronized solely by local students, thank god), _this_ is what Spanish fast food is. These places were _so_ tempting with their freshly made _bocadillos de jamón_ well lit in the window. We resisted, however.

What you see on the right is a local delicacy called an _hornazo_, a meat and hardboiled egg pie. I shall share this wonderful paragraph from [Wikipedia](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hornazo):

> In Salamanca, it is traditionally eaten in the field during the "Monday of the Waters" (_Lunes de Aguas_) festival. The name of this unique festival supposedly comes from a twisting of the word "_enagua_," or petticoat, which the prostitutes of the town used to wear under their dresses. During Lent, tradition tells us that the prostitutes of the town were sent to the other side of the Tormes River, so that the men of the town were not distracted during the religious observances. On the Monday of the Waters, the students of the town threw a party on the banks of the river to celebrate the return of the women, and ate _hornazo_ as part of the celebration.

We bought some to take home on Monday morning.

After our last wine, it was starting to rain, so we went back to the hotel with the intention of brushing our teeth, but a nap ensued. Can't do _that_ with kids around! While we had initially been critical of our hotel, [_Emperatriz I_](http://www.emperatrizhotel.com/hotel-emperatriz-i/), we came to adore it. The beds were more than comfortable enough, and the location could not be improved upon. It was right next to the _Plaza Mayor_, but just far enough away that there was no noise. If – no, **_when_**! – we return to Salamanca, we will probably try to stay in the same place.

We woke up at dusk, and I called the _Restaurante Lis_ to book a table for that lovely tasting menu that we had seen, but was informed that they were closed every Sunday. What?? Normally in Spain, everything _but_ restaurants are closed on Sunday.

### Choosing Sunday Dinner

So now we had a mission to choose a restaurant that would not be as disappointing as the night before. We stopped by a place, _Cafetería Berysa_, where we had had a beer in the _Plaza Mayor_ the day before, and had been impressed by the plates we saw as we walked passed diners on the way to and from the restroom. After looking at the menu, it was deemed "not all that special", so we made a deal. If we could reserve a table at the window looking out onto the _Plaza Mayor_, then the location and view would make it special enough to eat there. When I went to ask about the table, I was told to come back at 8:15pm, which was when the guy that assigned the tables started his shift. So we shelved the idea and continued to look for alternatives.

One place, the [_Restaurante Valencia_](http://www.restaurantevalencia.com), caught Marga's eye, because it was hidden back away down an alley from the main tourist hubbub, and the menu had some items that were unique and not something that we know how to prepare, like partridge.

We continued to stroll casually along, stopping for a beer at one of our favorite places, _Restaurante Rua Mayor_. To be honest, I wanted to try every single restaurant that we walked by. They all looked delicious.

In the end, we went back to the _Cafeteria Berysa_ and were told that the window was taken.

Our destiny decided for us, we continued on to the _Restaurante Valencia_.

### Restaurante Valencia

The first thing that struck me about the [_Restaurante Valencia_](http://www.restaurantevalencia.com) was how awesome the first letter of its name was represented on the menu out on the street. Behold:

<a href="https://d1js6qm6cshi0v.cloudfront.net/oldblog/2015-10-14-salamanca-2015-part-3-of-3/21928993168_8ed14f2745_o_d.jpg" target="_blank" class="flickr-image" title="Salamanca">
  <img src="https://d1js6qm6cshi0v.cloudfront.net/oldblog/2015-10-14-salamanca-2015-part-3-of-3/21928993168_51f62847e6.jpg" alt="Salamanca"/>
</a>

That's pretty badass.

We were shown back to the small dining room, which was occupied only a white-haired anglo-saxon gentleman was sitting in the corner by himself, and, at another table, a Spanish woman was sitting with her 11-year-old son, who was playing a game on a smart phone, just finishing up their meal. Before they left, the woman and her son had a conversation with the waitress, which made it clear that they were regular customers, if not good friends. The waitress asked the boy how his classes were going at school, and at one point, the waitress told an anecdote about how she studied when getting her physics degree.

They brought us the menus and wine list, which I perused while Marga went to the restroom. She came out saying how nice to soap smelled. From there, things only got better.

<a href="https://d1js6qm6cshi0v.cloudfront.net/oldblog/2015-10-14-salamanca-2015-part-3-of-3/21929970189_0618b27c7b_o_d.jpg" target="_blank" class="flickr-image" title="Salamanca">
  <img src="https://d1js6qm6cshi0v.cloudfront.net/oldblog/2015-10-14-salamanca-2015-part-3-of-3/21929970189_fa073eb801.jpg" alt="Salamanca"/>
</a>

While we chose our dinner from the menu, they brought us these ginormous super olives, which I felt compelled to photograph with a coin for scale.

<a href="https://d1js6qm6cshi0v.cloudfront.net/oldblog/2015-10-14-salamanca-2015-part-3-of-3/22090700626_a37bc90777_o_d.jpg" target="_blank" class="flickr-image" title="Salamanca">
  <img src="https://d1js6qm6cshi0v.cloudfront.net/oldblog/2015-10-14-salamanca-2015-part-3-of-3/22090700626_d5dddb22c7_z.jpg" alt="Salamanca"/>
</a>

I chose a _Gran Colegiata_ crianza, from the Toro wine producing region. I was amused that the cork got its own little plate upon which to sit so as not to stain the white table cloth.

<a href="https://d1js6qm6cshi0v.cloudfront.net/oldblog/2015-10-14-salamanca-2015-part-3-of-3/21928709650_1708030706_o_d.jpg" target="_blank" class="flickr-image" title="Salamanca">
  <img src="https://d1js6qm6cshi0v.cloudfront.net/oldblog/2015-10-14-salamanca-2015-part-3-of-3/21928709650_7bf590d5ab_z.jpg" alt="Salamanca"/>
</a>

I ordered the _Rabo de Toro Estofado Castellano_, or Castilian Stewed Bull Tail, a fairly common dish in Spain, but not something that I ever prepare at home, and this one was _really_ good. The stewed beef falls right off the vertebrae. The sauce was _amazing_.

<a href="https://d1js6qm6cshi0v.cloudfront.net/oldblog/2015-10-14-salamanca-2015-part-3-of-3/22126963271_697ed9650a_o_d.jpg" target="_blank" class="flickr-image" title="Salamanca">
  <img src="https://d1js6qm6cshi0v.cloudfront.net/oldblog/2015-10-14-salamanca-2015-part-3-of-3/22126963271_a39ef4d7c7_z.jpg" alt="Salamanca"/>
</a>

My date ordered the _Perdiz Estofada a la Antigua_, or Old-style Stewed Partridge. Hers was also very, very good.

<a href="https://d1js6qm6cshi0v.cloudfront.net/oldblog/2015-10-14-salamanca-2015-part-3-of-3/22116890365_d4a5647bf2_o_d.jpg" target="_blank" class="flickr-image" title="Salamanca">
  <img src="https://d1js6qm6cshi0v.cloudfront.net/oldblog/2015-10-14-salamanca-2015-part-3-of-3/22116890365_251e03a8ba.jpg" alt="Salamanca"/>
</a>

The dining room was very cosy, with old bullfighting posters adorning the walls.

As we were beginning our meal, an old man came in with a nice camera, and started taking photos of the decorated walls. But he was looking for and executing interesting angles of the walls and dining room like a photographer that knew what he was doing. By this time, the other diners had finished and left, so we were the only ones there. He then sat down at the table behind me and began ordering off the menu in heavily accented Spanish. As we observed him out of the corner of our eyes and ears, both seeing our own grandfathers in him, his lovely, intellectual, sense of humor came out. It became clear that he had been there dining the night before as well.

When his wine came, he told the young waiter to slow down, and pour more slowly, but in a kind gentle grandfatherly way that the young waiter reacted well to. He then asked the waiter his name. When the waiter said his name was David, the old man said, "Nice to meet you David. My name is Goliath." He joked around with the waitstaff like this for his entire meal. Once, he pointed to a detail on the label of his bottle of wine and asked David if he knew that it was referencing the estranged mother of the goddess of wine, or some such thing. He then asked for a plastic bag, so that he could take the empty bottle of wine home with him. What an eccentric man!

As we were having our post-dessert coffees, we couldn't stand it any longer, and we turned to him to ask him where he was from. He said that he was 81 years old, and then immediately corrected himself, saying that that day was actually his 82nd birthday, and that he had spent midnight the night before there at the restaurant, when it had become his birthday. He is a retired Architecture professor from the University of Milan, and was traveling around Spain on his own. When I mentioned that I was American, he told me, in slightly better English than his Spanish, that he had many colleagues and friends at UC Berkeley. I told him that the following day would be my birthday, and then the waiter, David, spoke up to say that the previous day, the tenth, had been _his_ birthday. I asked the professor what he thought of the architecture of Salamanca, and he was not very positive about it, calling much of it derivative. He even got in a jab about how, _actually_, the University of Bologna predates the University of Salamanca.

What a lovely gentleman. Can you imagine traveling around Europe on your own at age 82?

The other interesting conversation we had was with the waitress. The earlier overheard comment about her physics degree had been puzzling us for the entirety of the meal. She was maybe a little older than us, with some streaks of gray in her hair. I love it when women own their gray hair, and wear it confidently.

Pre-apologizing, we timidly asked the obvious, possibly impertinent, question: "If you have a degree in physics, what are you doing waiting tables?" She smiled and agreed that that was a good question. She explained that the restaurant had been in her husband's family for three generations, and that, when it had come time for him to inherit the restaurant, he promised her that she could make more money helping out with the restaurant than in academia, and he had been correct. She's now only working part time, on busy days, because she's got two seven month old fraternal twins that take up most of her energy.

Aside from the great food, great wine, and interesting local and foreign characters in a quiet, cozy setting, my wife and I had a great time getting to spend quality together talking as a couple of adults without having to shout at a child to eat properly or not throw that fork. It was a wonderful, relaxing meal on so many dimensions.

<a href="https://d1js6qm6cshi0v.cloudfront.net/oldblog/2015-10-14-salamanca-2015-part-3-of-3/22126971471_c262e19eb3_o_d.jpg" target="_blank" class="flickr-image" title="Salamanca">
  <img src="https://d1js6qm6cshi0v.cloudfront.net/oldblog/2015-10-14-salamanca-2015-part-3-of-3/22126971471_4859680fd2.jpg" alt="Salamanca"/>
</a>

We took the long way back to the hotel, to appreciate how gorgeous all the buildings were, lit up in all their grandeur at night.

Even the _Plaza Mayor_ was lit especially for my birthday, the _Día de la Hispanidad_.

<a href="https://d1js6qm6cshi0v.cloudfront.net/oldblog/2015-10-14-salamanca-2015-part-3-of-3/22126959651_84cab125b8_o_d.jpg" target="_blank" class="flickr-image" title="Salamanca">
  <img src="https://d1js6qm6cshi0v.cloudfront.net/oldblog/2015-10-14-salamanca-2015-part-3-of-3/22126959651_cfeeacda4a.jpg" alt="Salamanca"/>
</a>

We love you, Salamanca! We hope to see you again very soon!


Salamanca 2015 - Part 3 of 3


<a href="https://d1js6qm6cshi0v.cloudfront.net/oldblog/2015-10-12-salamanca-2015-part-1-of-3/22083998986_54a76519aa_o_d.jpg" target="_blank" class="flickr-image post-thumb" title="Salamanca">
  <img src="https://d1js6qm6cshi0v.cloudfront.net/oldblog/2015-10-12-salamanca-2015-part-1-of-3/22083998986_243d0ae138_t.jpg" alt="Salamanca"/>
</a>

For years now, my wife and I have been wanting to go to Salamanca. Everyone that has been there or lived there touts it as one of the most beautiful cities in Spain. Frustratingly, we drive right by it twice (or more) every year heading down to Extremadura for the summer. With Monday, October 12, being a national holiday in Spain (something about a guy named Columbus), meaning no work for my wife or school for my kids, we decided to drop the kids off at their Spanish grandparents' house and drive the 3.5 hours south to the city that predates the Roman Empire, and has a university that has been in continuous operation since the year 1134. We left home on Saturday morning, and got to Salamanca around noon. As we were entering the city, we called our hotel to inquire about parking and were told that they had parking for 11 €/night. As we were circling the old town trying to figure out how my iPhone was trying to get us to the hotel, we spotted a car leaving a parking spot, and dashed in. In the four minutes we were calculating how much we had to pay the meter, five other cars drove by to ask us if we were about to leave our choice spot. It turns out that we only had to pay a couple euros to get to the 14:00 cut-off for Saturday, and parking was free on Sunday and holidays. Score!

After a short 150m walk to the hotel, we checked into the [_Hotel Emperatriz I_](http://www.emperatrizhotel.com). The entrance seemed pretty dingy. Our room was pretty tiny and the tv on the wall was the size of an A4 sheet of paper. After a glance around, I aptly summed up the place as, "Absolutely nothing about this place is modern, but at least it's clean." Everything about the hotel felt old, and not in a good way. But we weren't there to enjoy the time in the hotel, so we quickly set out on foot to see the city.

Our daughter, Nora's, preschool teacher, Viky had given us some pointers about what to see and what and where to eat in Salamanca. Her daughter goes to the university and she and her husband go down there often. Thus, we had a list of things to go checking off in our two-day visit. But it was lunch time and time for some tapas!

<a href="https://d1js6qm6cshi0v.cloudfront.net/oldblog/2015-10-12-salamanca-2015-part-1-of-3/22110155825_799eedf34b_o_d.jpg" target="_blank" class="flickr-image" title="Salamanca">
  <img src="https://d1js6qm6cshi0v.cloudfront.net/oldblog/2015-10-12-salamanca-2015-part-1-of-3/22110155825_8d8bcc07a3.jpg" alt="Salamanca"/>
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A place very close to our hotel looked very enticing, so we stopped there first. I had this rice dish. I forget what the waiter called it, but it had little cubes of lamb liver, and a very strong taste of curry. It was _wonderful_!

<a href="https://d1js6qm6cshi0v.cloudfront.net/oldblog/2015-10-12-salamanca-2015-part-1-of-3/22083998986_54a76519aa_o_d.jpg" target="_blank" class="flickr-image" title="Salamanca">
  <img src="https://d1js6qm6cshi0v.cloudfront.net/oldblog/2015-10-12-salamanca-2015-part-1-of-3/22083998986_243d0ae138.jpg" alt="Salamanca"/>
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Then we found the _Plaza Mayor_ and it was selfie time! I think I was the only one not bionically enhanced with a selfie stick.

<a href="https://d1js6qm6cshi0v.cloudfront.net/oldblog/2015-10-12-salamanca-2015-part-1-of-3/22097628702_ed1a6cc5ae_o_d.jpg" target="_blank" class="flickr-image" title="Salamanca">
  <img src="https://d1js6qm6cshi0v.cloudfront.net/oldblog/2015-10-12-salamanca-2015-part-1-of-3/22097628702_bbd5c9c6e9_z.jpg" alt="Salamanca"/>
</a>

Viky had told us about a very typical dish called a _paloma_ (pigeon), which was an [_ensaladilla rusa_](/2008/05/22/ensaladilla-rusa-russian-salad/) served with four crunchy chips. We ordered a "half ration", but it turned out to be a lot of food. While we were glad that we had tried a typical dish, we were disappointed that we had wasted so much of our empty stomach space on a food that we make very well at home, whose ingredients are almost entirely taken out of a can or jar.

<a href="https://d1js6qm6cshi0v.cloudfront.net/oldblog/2015-10-12-salamanca-2015-part-1-of-3/21922288318_354d69f1d0_o_d.jpg" target="_blank" class="flickr-image" title="Salamanca">
  <img src="https://d1js6qm6cshi0v.cloudfront.net/oldblog/2015-10-12-salamanca-2015-part-1-of-3/21922288318_0eb33fb351_z.jpg" alt="Salamanca"/>
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The view from the _Café Real_, however, was lovely.

<a href="https://d1js6qm6cshi0v.cloudfront.net/oldblog/2015-10-12-salamanca-2015-part-1-of-3/22110214025_2c79d4c7dd_o_d.jpg" target="_blank" class="flickr-image" title="Salamanca">
  <img src="https://d1js6qm6cshi0v.cloudfront.net/oldblog/2015-10-12-salamanca-2015-part-1-of-3/22110214025_f62b707978.jpg" alt="Salamanca"/>
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The _Plaza Mayor_ is really gorgeous.

<a href="https://d1js6qm6cshi0v.cloudfront.net/oldblog/2015-10-12-salamanca-2015-part-1-of-3/21922026500_2b767cc185_o_d.jpg" target="_blank" class="flickr-image" title="Salamanca">
  <img src="https://d1js6qm6cshi0v.cloudfront.net/oldblog/2015-10-12-salamanca-2015-part-1-of-3/21922026500_18a4107165.jpg" alt="Salamanca"/>
</a>

Another place that had been recommended to us was the _Meson Cervantes_, which is up a narrow flight of steps from the _Plaza Mayor_. We climbed the steps and found the place to be very lovely, but it was _packed with people_, and there was no bar or table space, so after a few uneasy minutes of trying to get noticed by a waiter, we decided to leave.

We had another beer with some potato chips (also disappointing stomach filler) at another bar where we could sit out in the _Plaza Mayor_, before beginning our tourism in earnest.

<a href="https://d1js6qm6cshi0v.cloudfront.net/oldblog/2015-10-12-salamanca-2015-part-1-of-3/21922301208_649d52ebd7_o_d.jpg" target="_blank" class="flickr-image" title="Salamanca">
  <img src="https://d1js6qm6cshi0v.cloudfront.net/oldblog/2015-10-12-salamanca-2015-part-1-of-3/21922301208_464dffacc2_z.jpg" alt="Salamanca"/>
</a>

This was the street our hotel was on. Very much of Salamanca's Old Town looks like this. It is all pedestrian streets, which is lovely.

<a href="https://d1js6qm6cshi0v.cloudfront.net/oldblog/2015-10-12-salamanca-2015-part-1-of-3/22120259961_295aef2d02_o_d.jpg" target="_blank" class="flickr-image" title="Salamanca">
  <img src="https://d1js6qm6cshi0v.cloudfront.net/oldblog/2015-10-12-salamanca-2015-part-1-of-3/22120259961_9920049c54.jpg" alt="Salamanca"/>
</a>

Selfie in front of the _Casa de las Conchas_ (House of Shells), a 500-year-old house that now houses the public library.

<a href="https://d1js6qm6cshi0v.cloudfront.net/oldblog/2015-10-12-salamanca-2015-part-1-of-3/22110202665_77e040720a_o_d.jpg" target="_blank" class="flickr-image" title="Salamanca">
  <img src="https://d1js6qm6cshi0v.cloudfront.net/oldblog/2015-10-12-salamanca-2015-part-1-of-3/22110202665_4bfa90c687.jpg" alt="Salamanca"/>
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A very deftly framed photo of a gargoyle in the patio of the _Casa de las Conchas_ overhanging the Pontifical University of Salamanca across the street.

### Salamanca Cathedral

<a href="https://d1js6qm6cshi0v.cloudfront.net/oldblog/2015-10-12-salamanca-2015-part-1-of-3/21922330878_944bf01be4_o_d.jpg" target="_blank" class="flickr-image" title="Salamanca">
  <img src="https://d1js6qm6cshi0v.cloudfront.net/oldblog/2015-10-12-salamanca-2015-part-1-of-3/21922330878_527135f2db.jpg" alt="Salamanca"/>
</a>

The front of the Salamanca Cathedral. The level of detail on the facades all over Salamanca is really overwhelming. A priest could walk through these doors every day for sixty years and still notice something new each day.

We were on our way to do the activity that I was certain would be my favorite: walking on the roof of the cathedral!

<a href="https://d1js6qm6cshi0v.cloudfront.net/oldblog/2015-10-12-salamanca-2015-part-1-of-3/21489114033_d2c3066222_o_d.jpg" target="_blank" class="flickr-image" title="Salamanca">
  <img src="https://d1js6qm6cshi0v.cloudfront.net/oldblog/2015-10-12-salamanca-2015-part-1-of-3/21489114033_ec3891a411.jpg" alt="Salamanca"/>
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After quite a bit of a climb we were up on the roof of the cathedral. They don't _literally_ let you walk on the terracotta tiles, of course, but there is a nicely controlled, completely safe gangway for you to walk on.

<a href="https://d1js6qm6cshi0v.cloudfront.net/oldblog/2015-10-12-salamanca-2015-part-1-of-3/21922043930_82fc5eeb8d_o_d.jpg" target="_blank" class="flickr-image" title="Salamanca">
  <img src="https://d1js6qm6cshi0v.cloudfront.net/oldblog/2015-10-12-salamanca-2015-part-1-of-3/21922043930_2ba27fc5fb.jpg" alt="Salamanca"/>
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Cathedral selfie. The winning caption prize for this, however, goes to my Facebook friend, who quipped: "Ugliest gargoyle ever."

<a href="https://d1js6qm6cshi0v.cloudfront.net/oldblog/2015-10-12-salamanca-2015-part-1-of-3/22097709062_ecc5a06e4f_o_d.jpg" target="_blank" class="flickr-image" title="Salamanca">
  <img src="https://d1js6qm6cshi0v.cloudfront.net/oldblog/2015-10-12-salamanca-2015-part-1-of-3/22097709062_b00ca64838.jpg" alt="Salamanca"/>
</a>

The views were spectacular.

<a href="https://d1js6qm6cshi0v.cloudfront.net/oldblog/2015-10-12-salamanca-2015-part-1-of-3/21922356008_de8a0d33ca_o_d.jpg" target="_blank" class="flickr-image" title="Salamanca">
  <img src="https://d1js6qm6cshi0v.cloudfront.net/oldblog/2015-10-12-salamanca-2015-part-1-of-3/21922356008_953a28c733.jpg" alt="Salamanca"/>
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Inside the church as well. The heights were dizzying.

<iframe width="505" height="284" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/tX6MSoxbQgI" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>

I'm not used to being up so high in a cathedral! It really made me appreciate what it must have been like to place all the top stones.

<a href="https://d1js6qm6cshi0v.cloudfront.net/oldblog/2015-10-12-salamanca-2015-part-1-of-3/21923056538_13637c5b09_o_d.jpg" target="_blank" class="flickr-image" title="Salamanca">
  <img src="https://d1js6qm6cshi0v.cloudfront.net/oldblog/2015-10-12-salamanca-2015-part-1-of-3/21923056538_2600c31072_z.jpg" alt="Salamanca"/>
</a>

Even from where we were, the building continued upwards.

The stone (limestone), with which the entire city is built, crumbles to the touch. If you run your hand over it, you can feel little bits of it falling off onto your fingertips. As such, it's a perfect medium for the master carving on the facades of the cathedral and university buildings, but it also makes it easy for any old joker to carve their name in the stone, which is exactly what people did, often at the best viewing spots.

<a href="https://d1js6qm6cshi0v.cloudfront.net/oldblog/2015-10-12-salamanca-2015-part-1-of-3/21488126514_4d778e7e3a_o_d.jpg" target="_blank" class="flickr-image" title="Salamanca">
  <img src="https://d1js6qm6cshi0v.cloudfront.net/oldblog/2015-10-12-salamanca-2015-part-1-of-3/21488126514_2d9b8200d9.jpg" alt="Salamanca"/>
</a>

This carving, in particular, caught my eye. "_Miguel y Sary, 9 x 1945_" It made me wonder about the fate of Miguel and Sary. I wonder if they're still together, 70 years later?

### Salamanca University

The most "important" carving, if you believe the tour guide books is at the entrance to the ancient university. I was so numb to the intricacies of the carvings that I didn't even think to take a photograph when we got there (below is one from Wikicommons).

[![](https://d1js6qm6cshi0v.cloudfront.net/oldblog/2015-10-12-salamanca-2015-part-1-of-3/640px-University_of_Salamanca_Fray_Luis_de_Leon.jpg)](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/University_of_Salamanca#/media/File:University_of_Salamanca_Fray_Luis_de_Leon.jpg)

There were maybe 100 tourists, many more than you see in the photo, all staring up at a facade not unlike this one from the Cathedral, looking very intently, searching... For what, you might ask? There is a "legend" that states that if a student "sees the frog" on her way to taking an exam, then she will do well on the exam. So all the tourists were playing a game of _Where's Waldo?_ with a stone frog. I did not cheat, nor had any prior information to its origin, and after about five minutes gave up, only to be told that it was a bump that I had discounted as not possibly being it about thirty seconds into my search. Oh well.

However, once you understand this "legend", you will understand why all the souvenir shops in Salamanca are chock full of frogs.

<a href="https://d1js6qm6cshi0v.cloudfront.net/oldblog/2015-10-12-salamanca-2015-part-1-of-3/21488134204_082cae66fe_o_d.jpg" target="_blank" class="flickr-image" title="Salamanca">
  <img src="https://d1js6qm6cshi0v.cloudfront.net/oldblog/2015-10-12-salamanca-2015-part-1-of-3/21488134204_9505cb67e5.jpg" alt="Salamanca"/>
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Shadows in the university courtyard.

<a href="https://d1js6qm6cshi0v.cloudfront.net/oldblog/2015-10-12-salamanca-2015-part-1-of-3/21924042199_99679f03a6_o_d.jpg" target="_blank" class="flickr-image" title="Salamanca">
  <img src="https://d1js6qm6cshi0v.cloudfront.net/oldblog/2015-10-12-salamanca-2015-part-1-of-3/21924042199_fa1e11c5fb_z.jpg" alt="Salamanca"/>
</a>

A modern 3-star hotel built alongside the ruins of a church.

### Convento de San Esteban

Finally, we went to the _Convento de San Esteban_ (Convent of St. Stephen), yet another masterpiece of gothic architecture.

<a href="https://d1js6qm6cshi0v.cloudfront.net/oldblog/2015-10-12-salamanca-2015-part-1-of-3/22084783666_03d48e1494_o_d.jpg" target="_blank" class="flickr-image" title="Salamanca">
  <img src="https://d1js6qm6cshi0v.cloudfront.net/oldblog/2015-10-12-salamanca-2015-part-1-of-3/22084783666_e1f925f539.jpg" alt="Salamanca"/>
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I think the convent was our favorite of the places we toured.

<a href="https://d1js6qm6cshi0v.cloudfront.net/oldblog/2015-10-12-salamanca-2015-part-1-of-3/21923078938_f063e7dd67_o_d.jpg" target="_blank" class="flickr-image" title="Salamanca">
  <img src="https://d1js6qm6cshi0v.cloudfront.net/oldblog/2015-10-12-salamanca-2015-part-1-of-3/21923078938_715a4349be.jpg" alt="Salamanca"/>
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How lovely are convents? This one had mirrors placed on the floor (see the one leaning against the wall on the right) to aid in the appreciation of the intricate ceiling without destroying your neck.

<a href="https://d1js6qm6cshi0v.cloudfront.net/oldblog/2015-10-12-salamanca-2015-part-1-of-3/22084787986_26302b7dda_o_d.jpg" target="_blank" class="flickr-image" title="Salamanca">
  <img src="https://d1js6qm6cshi0v.cloudfront.net/oldblog/2015-10-12-salamanca-2015-part-1-of-3/22084787986_d1ebbd0594_z.jpg" alt="Salamanca"/>
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Convent girl.

<a href="https://d1js6qm6cshi0v.cloudfront.net/oldblog/2015-10-12-salamanca-2015-part-1-of-3/21923081648_7c56fe9dd5_o_d.jpg" target="_blank" class="flickr-image" title="Salamanca">
  <img src="https://d1js6qm6cshi0v.cloudfront.net/oldblog/2015-10-12-salamanca-2015-part-1-of-3/21923081648_d2e43b2fea_z.jpg" alt="Salamanca"/>
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Another mirror, placed in the main aisle of the church.

<iframe width="505" height="284" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/m-6lS-dE99g" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>

As night fell, the birds of Salamanca tried to find a place to roost on the roof of the convent.

While I took my DSLR camera to Salamanca, in the end, the convenience of the iPhone camera won out, and I never used the DSLR. My phone, however, was knackered from navigating us all the way to Salamanca and then a day of photos. It turns out that so were we.

For dinner, we chose a place that Viky had recommended, [El Corrillo](http://www.cafecorrillo.com). We were surprised when it turned out to be more of a jazz café. Typical dinner time in Spain is about 10pm, but we were tired and hungry, so we waited at the bar until 8:25 when they let us downstairs to be the only ones in the dining room. We ordered the "_parrillada simple_" (simple meat platter), which turned out to be a pretty bland selection of meat that we could have done better at home.

<a href="https://d1js6qm6cshi0v.cloudfront.net/oldblog/2015-10-12-salamanca-2015-part-1-of-3/22110982915_4fe2b20d2c_o_d.jpg" target="_blank" class="flickr-image" title="Salamanca">
  <img src="https://d1js6qm6cshi0v.cloudfront.net/oldblog/2015-10-12-salamanca-2015-part-1-of-3/22110982915_ab8a18dea4.jpg" alt="Salamanca"/>
</a>

The decor of the _Corrillo_ was very cool. Our table was actually up on stage next to the piano.

We were so exhausted, that, rather than go out for a night on the town, on October 10th, we went to bed at 10pm and slept for ten hours.

...[continue to Part 2](/2015/10/12/the-flowers-and-faces-of-convento-de-las-duenas-salamanca-2015-part-2-of-3/).


Salamanca 2015 - Part 1 of 3


On the morning of October 11th, we visited several places around Salamanca, but one we had not planned on entering, but just happened upon was the _Convento de las Dueñas_, a Dominican convent that dates back to 1419, when _Doña Juana Rodríquez Maldonado_ – ironically, as her second surname means "badly donated" – donated her palatial Moorish-style house to the Dominican Order.

There are certain circumstances, based on weather, mood, lighting and other intangibles, when everything seems photogenic. With the ground wet from a night of rainfall, I found myself in one of these states that morning, and I could have spent hours upon hours taking photographs in the beautiful courtyard of the _Convento de las Dueñas_. Alas, I exercised constraint, but here are only _some_ of my photos. <a href="https://d1js6qm6cshi0v.cloudfront.net/oldblog/2015-10-12-the-flowers-and-faces-of-convento-de-las-duenas-salamanca-2015-part-2-of-3/21926161609_a5aa705729_o_d.jpg" target="_blank" class="flickr-image" title="Convento de las Dueñas, Salamanca">
  <img src="https://d1js6qm6cshi0v.cloudfront.net/oldblog/2015-10-12-the-flowers-and-faces-of-convento-de-las-duenas-salamanca-2015-part-2-of-3/21926161609_77d76626c9.jpg" alt="Convento de las Dueñas, Salamanca"/>
</a>

The door to the courtyard.

<a href="https://d1js6qm6cshi0v.cloudfront.net/oldblog/2015-10-12-the-flowers-and-faces-of-convento-de-las-duenas-salamanca-2015-part-2-of-3/22086896936_363d4e0dae_o_d.jpg" target="_blank" class="flickr-image" title="Convento de las Dueñas, Salamanca">
  <img src="https://d1js6qm6cshi0v.cloudfront.net/oldblog/2015-10-12-the-flowers-and-faces-of-convento-de-las-duenas-salamanca-2015-part-2-of-3/22086896936_0abae6e6c6.jpg" alt="Convento de las Dueñas, Salamanca"/>
</a>

Arches.

<a href="https://d1js6qm6cshi0v.cloudfront.net/oldblog/2015-10-12-the-flowers-and-faces-of-convento-de-las-duenas-salamanca-2015-part-2-of-3/22100538532_db33588ddc_o_d.jpg" target="_blank" class="flickr-image" title="Convento de las Dueñas, Salamanca">
  <img src="https://d1js6qm6cshi0v.cloudfront.net/oldblog/2015-10-12-the-flowers-and-faces-of-convento-de-las-duenas-salamanca-2015-part-2-of-3/22100538532_8f9cf8ecfe_z.jpg" alt="Convento de las Dueñas, Salamanca"/>
</a>

 Another door. When I touch old wood like this, I wonder how long ago it was chopped from a tree.

<a href="https://d1js6qm6cshi0v.cloudfront.net/oldblog/2015-10-12-the-flowers-and-faces-of-convento-de-las-duenas-salamanca-2015-part-2-of-3/21926166089_2828a58184_o_d.jpg" target="_blank" class="flickr-image" title="Convento de las Dueñas, Salamanca">
  <img src="https://d1js6qm6cshi0v.cloudfront.net/oldblog/2015-10-12-the-flowers-and-faces-of-convento-de-las-duenas-salamanca-2015-part-2-of-3/21926166089_7c2d95595c_z.jpg" alt="Convento de las Dueñas, Salamanca"/>
</a>

Convent flower.

<a href="https://d1js6qm6cshi0v.cloudfront.net/oldblog/2015-10-12-the-flowers-and-faces-of-convento-de-las-duenas-salamanca-2015-part-2-of-3/22100541152_477c7c5e3c_o_d.jpg" target="_blank" class="flickr-image" title="Convento de las Dueñas, Salamanca">
  <img src="https://d1js6qm6cshi0v.cloudfront.net/oldblog/2015-10-12-the-flowers-and-faces-of-convento-de-las-duenas-salamanca-2015-part-2-of-3/22100541152_1ce4ae3b1b.jpg" alt="Convento de las Dueñas, Salamanca"/>
</a>

Glistening rose.

<a href="https://d1js6qm6cshi0v.cloudfront.net/oldblog/2015-10-12-the-flowers-and-faces-of-convento-de-las-duenas-salamanca-2015-part-2-of-3/21926167119_71dfbc803f_o_d.jpg" target="_blank" class="flickr-image" title="Convento de las Dueñas, Salamanca">
  <img src="https://d1js6qm6cshi0v.cloudfront.net/oldblog/2015-10-12-the-flowers-and-faces-of-convento-de-las-duenas-salamanca-2015-part-2-of-3/21926167119_ced30603f5.jpg" alt="Convento de las Dueñas, Salamanca"/>
</a>

Tourists wishing this was our garden.

<a href="https://d1js6qm6cshi0v.cloudfront.net/oldblog/2015-10-12-the-flowers-and-faces-of-convento-de-las-duenas-salamanca-2015-part-2-of-3/22100542102_7df40a18c8_o_d.jpg" target="_blank" class="flickr-image" title="Convento de las Dueñas, Salamanca">
  <img src="https://d1js6qm6cshi0v.cloudfront.net/oldblog/2015-10-12-the-flowers-and-faces-of-convento-de-las-duenas-salamanca-2015-part-2-of-3/22100542102_183d327dd2.jpg" alt="Convento de las Dueñas, Salamanca"/>
</a>

I'm in your Moorish keyhole arch.

<a href="https://d1js6qm6cshi0v.cloudfront.net/oldblog/2015-10-12-the-flowers-and-faces-of-convento-de-las-duenas-salamanca-2015-part-2-of-3/21925195338_a7696c2b89_o_d.jpg" target="_blank" class="flickr-image" title="Convento de las Dueñas, Salamanca">
  <img src="https://d1js6qm6cshi0v.cloudfront.net/oldblog/2015-10-12-the-flowers-and-faces-of-convento-de-las-duenas-salamanca-2015-part-2-of-3/21925195338_fb0d2e9709.jpg" alt="Convento de las Dueñas, Salamanca"/>
</a>

Church bells and flower petals.

<a href="https://d1js6qm6cshi0v.cloudfront.net/oldblog/2015-10-12-the-flowers-and-faces-of-convento-de-las-duenas-salamanca-2015-part-2-of-3/21490251944_4b2c1f8f10_o_d.jpg" target="_blank" class="flickr-image" title="Convento de las Dueñas, Salamanca">
  <img src="https://d1js6qm6cshi0v.cloudfront.net/oldblog/2015-10-12-the-flowers-and-faces-of-convento-de-las-duenas-salamanca-2015-part-2-of-3/21490251944_e1e8f64f5e.jpg" alt="Convento de las Dueñas, Salamanca"/>
</a>

Convent petal drops.

<a href="https://d1js6qm6cshi0v.cloudfront.net/oldblog/2015-10-12-the-flowers-and-faces-of-convento-de-las-duenas-salamanca-2015-part-2-of-3/21490252924_4206236907_o_d.jpg" target="_blank" class="flickr-image" title="Convento de las Dueñas, Salamanca">
  <img src="https://d1js6qm6cshi0v.cloudfront.net/oldblog/2015-10-12-the-flowers-and-faces-of-convento-de-las-duenas-salamanca-2015-part-2-of-3/21490252924_459ee7c2ed.jpg" alt="Convento de las Dueñas, Salamanca"/>
</a>

You can barely see the faces in this shot, but every single column is lined with a handful of some of the ghoulish stone faces you've ever seen.

<a href="https://d1js6qm6cshi0v.cloudfront.net/oldblog/2015-10-12-the-flowers-and-faces-of-convento-de-las-duenas-salamanca-2015-part-2-of-3/22086904166_4dbbd19117_o_d.jpg" target="_blank" class="flickr-image" title="Convento de las Dueñas, Salamanca">
  <img src="https://d1js6qm6cshi0v.cloudfront.net/oldblog/2015-10-12-the-flowers-and-faces-of-convento-de-las-duenas-salamanca-2015-part-2-of-3/22086904166_d1d943764b.jpg" alt="Convento de las Dueñas, Salamanca"/>
</a>

One last flower shot before we head up to visit the faces.

### Faces

<a href="https://d1js6qm6cshi0v.cloudfront.net/oldblog/2015-10-12-the-flowers-and-faces-of-convento-de-las-duenas-salamanca-2015-part-2-of-3/21924901340_2d38387fd2_o_d.jpg" target="_blank" class="flickr-image" title="Convento de las Dueñas, Salamanca">
  <img src="https://d1js6qm6cshi0v.cloudfront.net/oldblog/2015-10-12-the-flowers-and-faces-of-convento-de-las-duenas-salamanca-2015-part-2-of-3/21924901340_a4144743e6.jpg" alt="Convento de las Dueñas, Salamanca"/>
</a>

That's the Salamanca Cathedral in the background.

<a href="https://d1js6qm6cshi0v.cloudfront.net/oldblog/2015-10-12-the-flowers-and-faces-of-convento-de-las-duenas-salamanca-2015-part-2-of-3/22100545752_dc577ab3d8_o_d.jpg" target="_blank" class="flickr-image" title="Convento de las Dueñas, Salamanca">
  <img src="https://d1js6qm6cshi0v.cloudfront.net/oldblog/2015-10-12-the-flowers-and-faces-of-convento-de-las-duenas-salamanca-2015-part-2-of-3/22100545752_084ec27ff4.jpg" alt="Convento de las Dueñas, Salamanca"/>
</a>

Some pretty sad faces.

<a href="https://d1js6qm6cshi0v.cloudfront.net/oldblog/2015-10-12-the-flowers-and-faces-of-convento-de-las-duenas-salamanca-2015-part-2-of-3/21491970843_51d7d1877e_o_d.jpg" target="_blank" class="flickr-image" title="Convento de las Dueñas, Salamanca">
  <img src="https://d1js6qm6cshi0v.cloudfront.net/oldblog/2015-10-12-the-flowers-and-faces-of-convento-de-las-duenas-salamanca-2015-part-2-of-3/21491970843_b415af5dd1.jpg" alt="Convento de las Dueñas, Salamanca"/>
</a>

Here, you can see how every column was loaded with faces.

<a href="https://d1js6qm6cshi0v.cloudfront.net/oldblog/2015-10-12-the-flowers-and-faces-of-convento-de-las-duenas-salamanca-2015-part-2-of-3/22100546852_2c7421d56a_o_d.jpg" target="_blank" class="flickr-image" title="Convento de las Dueñas, Salamanca">
  <img src="https://d1js6qm6cshi0v.cloudfront.net/oldblog/2015-10-12-the-flowers-and-faces-of-convento-de-las-duenas-salamanca-2015-part-2-of-3/22100546852_b90c7f2d77.jpg" alt="Convento de las Dueñas, Salamanca"/>
</a>

As with gargoyles, the Catholic art tradition was very much into displaying evil and scary hell monsters. Perhaps the proper word for this is a [chimera](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Chimera_(architecture))?

<a href="https://d1js6qm6cshi0v.cloudfront.net/oldblog/2015-10-12-the-flowers-and-faces-of-convento-de-las-duenas-salamanca-2015-part-2-of-3/21924904420_e434671759_o_d.jpg" target="_blank" class="flickr-image" title="Convento de las Dueñas, Salamanca">
  <img src="https://d1js6qm6cshi0v.cloudfront.net/oldblog/2015-10-12-the-flowers-and-faces-of-convento-de-las-duenas-salamanca-2015-part-2-of-3/21924904420_543e0d50f1_z.jpg" alt="Convento de las Dueñas, Salamanca"/>
</a>

These sculptors were extremely creative!

<a href="https://d1js6qm6cshi0v.cloudfront.net/oldblog/2015-10-12-the-flowers-and-faces-of-convento-de-las-duenas-salamanca-2015-part-2-of-3/21491974443_9614c412c7_o_d.jpg" target="_blank" class="flickr-image" title="Convento de las Dueñas, Salamanca">
  <img src="https://d1js6qm6cshi0v.cloudfront.net/oldblog/2015-10-12-the-flowers-and-faces-of-convento-de-las-duenas-salamanca-2015-part-2-of-3/21491974443_a663398b31.jpg" alt="Convento de las Dueñas, Salamanca"/>
</a>

Walking around the square garden looking at faces.

<a href="https://d1js6qm6cshi0v.cloudfront.net/oldblog/2015-10-12-the-flowers-and-faces-of-convento-de-las-duenas-salamanca-2015-part-2-of-3/21491975513_e4cc36d95c_o_d.jpg" target="_blank" class="flickr-image" title="Convento de las Dueñas, Salamanca">
  <img src="https://d1js6qm6cshi0v.cloudfront.net/oldblog/2015-10-12-the-flowers-and-faces-of-convento-de-las-duenas-salamanca-2015-part-2-of-3/21491975513_28b1623562_z.jpg" alt="Convento de las Dueñas, Salamanca"/>
</a>

I could _not_ keep a straight face.

<a href="https://d1js6qm6cshi0v.cloudfront.net/oldblog/2015-10-12-the-flowers-and-faces-of-convento-de-las-duenas-salamanca-2015-part-2-of-3/21490260764_015152896d_o_d.jpg" target="_blank" class="flickr-image" title="Convento de las Dueñas, Salamanca">
  <img src="https://d1js6qm6cshi0v.cloudfront.net/oldblog/2015-10-12-the-flowers-and-faces-of-convento-de-las-duenas-salamanca-2015-part-2-of-3/21490260764_b051c2f008.jpg" alt="Convento de las Dueñas, Salamanca"/>
</a>

I found the detail on the wavy hair particularly impressive.

<a href="https://d1js6qm6cshi0v.cloudfront.net/oldblog/2015-10-12-the-flowers-and-faces-of-convento-de-las-duenas-salamanca-2015-part-2-of-3/22100553682_d4c60f1767_o_d.jpg" target="_blank" class="flickr-image" title="Convento de las Dueñas, Salamanca">
  <img src="https://d1js6qm6cshi0v.cloudfront.net/oldblog/2015-10-12-the-flowers-and-faces-of-convento-de-las-duenas-salamanca-2015-part-2-of-3/22100553682_fd18d81364.jpg" alt="Convento de las Dueñas, Salamanca"/>
</a>

Nice 'stache.

<a href="https://d1js6qm6cshi0v.cloudfront.net/oldblog/2015-10-12-the-flowers-and-faces-of-convento-de-las-duenas-salamanca-2015-part-2-of-3/21490264144_57f7204a80_o_d.jpg" target="_blank" class="flickr-image" title="Convento de las Dueñas, Salamanca">
  <img src="https://d1js6qm6cshi0v.cloudfront.net/oldblog/2015-10-12-the-flowers-and-faces-of-convento-de-las-duenas-salamanca-2015-part-2-of-3/21490264144_729c90d524.jpg" alt="Convento de las Dueñas, Salamanca"/>
</a>

Winged goat-dragons?

<a href="https://d1js6qm6cshi0v.cloudfront.net/oldblog/2015-10-12-the-flowers-and-faces-of-convento-de-las-duenas-salamanca-2015-part-2-of-3/21490261934_363b5195bf_o_d.jpg" target="_blank" class="flickr-image" title="Convento de las Dueñas, Salamanca">
  <img src="https://d1js6qm6cshi0v.cloudfront.net/oldblog/2015-10-12-the-flowers-and-faces-of-convento-de-las-duenas-salamanca-2015-part-2-of-3/21490261934_62eb213ddb_z.jpg" alt="Convento de las Dueñas, Salamanca"/>
</a>

No legs and wings for arms.

What a beautiful, if a bit grotesque, place this convent was, and we just happened upon it during our walk through town.


4 posts from October, 2015